In the wine world, The region of Beaujolais and the Gamay grape remind me of those once overlooked kids who've just aced their exams at school. Previously underestimated, they've suddenly catapulted to stardom, giving the overpriced Pinot Noir a run for its money.
Beaujolais, still haunted by its infamous Beaujolais Nouveau reputation, has reinvented itself over the years. The Gamay grape now showcases quality that'll make your taste buds dance in delight.
As Pinot Noir prices in Burgundy skyrocket faster than a spaceship, Beaujolais emerges as the savvy sipper's secret weapon. It's like finding a unicorn in your backyard – rare, exciting, and surprisingly affordable.
Just south of the famous region of Burgundy, in a region over shadowed by its glitzy neighbors in Burgundy, where tradition meets innovation, Beaujolais has been quietly perfecting its Gamay grape in the granite soils of Beaujolais. This unsung hero, often mistaken for Pinot Noir's quirky cousin, is an underappreciated gem producing wines with vibran personality as well as 10 captivating Beaujolais Crus.
Pinot Noir – Unaffordable luxury?
Let’s set the records straight. I’m a huge fan of Pinot Noir, especially Burgundy Pinot Noir which is the epitome of finesse, complexity, and elegance. Whilst I won’t forego the chance to drink a glass of Burgundy Pinot, it makes me feel like I’m having to pay for VIP tickets to a concert that only plays the greatest hits from the biggest stars. Burgundy Pinot Noir has become the rockstar of the wine world, demanding a wallet-draining price for every show. Already known to be amongst the most expensive wines in the world, Burgundy prices have risen by a whopping 28% since 2019 alone and whilst production volumes have increased slightly this year, I cannot foresee these prices drop enough. In a nutshell, Burgundy Pinot Noir has, sadly, become unaffordable to many of us.
There are some incredible alternative Pinot Noir’s from other regions such as Italy, Germany and even New Zealand, and whilst many of these of these wines offer incredible depth, complexity, and elegance, we tend to forget that just south of Burgundy there is alternative grape variety that also has some similarities to Burgundy Pinot Noir.
Gamay – An Affordable Alternative
In keeping with rock concert analogy, Gamay is more of that down-to-earth artist with an acoustic guitar, ready to serenade your taste buds without costing an arm and leg. As Pinot Noir prices reach the stratosphere, Gamay offers an affordable alternative that doesn't compromise on flavor. It's like getting front-row seats without the VIP price tag. In a 2018 article, renowned critic Jancis Robinson states that even though the grapes may be different, the build is the same, especially since more and more Beaujolais is being made using traditional Burgundian techniques.
Beaujolais Nouveau – A Flashback to the '80s
Let me quickly address the awkward elephant in the room –Beaujolais Nouveau. Once the life of the party in the '80s, it’s left a sour aftertaste. Just like the questionable fashion choice that haunts our yearbook photos, we now pretend to never have drunk that stuff, although deep down you know we’ve all been there. Released on the 3rd Thursday in November, Beaujolais Nouveau was intended to be the new wine of the latest vintage that is meant to be drunk immediately after release. A wine with bright character, light bodied with little tannins and dangerously easy to drink. It was a worldwide sensation but as expected, too many producers jumped on the bandwagon and churned out cheap, acidic wine with a bubblegum pop.
But fear not, the Beaujolais region has undergone a make over, and the region’s producers are focusing more on quality, such that even Beaujolais Nouveau, once relegated to bargain bins, is also making a slight comeback. Many winemakers are ditching the rush-to-market approach, focusing on quality over speed. It's a Nouveau redemption story, that you may want to give a second chance. Last year, I did manage to get through half a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau, but I’m not in rush for another glass anytime soon.
Decoding Gamay's Flavor Palette
However, I’m pouring myself a glass of ‘Fleurie’ Beaujolais Cruas I write and it’s delicious. Let's delve into the magic of Gamay's flavorspectrum. Imagine a burst of freshly picked red fruits – cherries, raspberries,and strawberries – bouncing around on your palate. Add a hint of floral notes,a touch of spice, and a good dash of acidity for a melody that's both playfuland incredibly sophisticated.
Beaujolais wines come in three primary styles:
1. Beaujolais Nouveau: Light, fruity, and meant for immediate enjoyment. Think of it as the Beaujolais party-starter, designed to be uncorked and celebrated without delay. It’s actually a pretty decent Christmas drink that can work with an array of mince pies and Christmas snacks.
2. Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages: A step up in complexity, these wines offer a more nuanced expression of the Gamay grape. With a balance of fruitiness and structure, they're versatile and can be rather delightful. I strongly recommend slightly chilling a bottle before your next summer dinner – you may be pleasantly surprised.
3. The Crus of Beaujolais: The stars of the region! The ten Crus are individual villages, each with its own unique terroir. From the robust wines of Morgon to the floral elegance of Fleurie, the Crus showcase the incredible diversity and finesse within Beaujolais. Oftentimes, Beaujolais Cru is confusing to the consumer since they don’t have any reference to Beaujolais on the label, but simply state the name of the Cru. Whilst styles vary, there is a tendency to make an increasing proportion of these wines in much the same way as Côte d’Or red Burgundy so that they improve in bottle. The most substantial examples from Brouilly,Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon can age up to 10 years (and even more) and start to taste more like mature Burgundy Pinot Noir. Bingo!
The Crus Unveiled – What should we expect?
1. Morgon: The heavyweight champion, producing robust, age-worthy wines with a distinct mineral edge.
2. Fleurie: The romantic, offering wines that are floral, elegant, and reminiscent of a bouquet of violets.
3. Moulin-à-Vent: The powerhouse, crafting wines with structure and depth, often referred to as the "King of Beaujolais." These wines can age beautifully.
4. Brouilly: The largest Cru, delivering fruity and approachable wines perfect for everyday enjoyment.
5. Chiroubles: The charmer, known for its finesse, bright acidity, and delightful floral aromas.
6. Régnié: The newcomer among the Crus, producing wines that strike a balance between fruitiness and structure.
7. Côte de Brouilly: The sibling of Brouilly, situated on the slopes of the extinct Mont Brouilly, offering wines with added depth.
8. Juliénas: The bold and masculine, crafting wines with structure, complexity, and a touch of spice.
9. Saint-Amour: The romantic at heart, producing wines that are light, charming, and perfect for celebration.
10. Chénas: The versatile, known for wines that range from light and fruity to more robust expressions.
The Future of Beaujolais
The future looks bright. The region is slowly shedding the Nouveau stigma and the Crus are gaining recognition. Winemakers are embracing sustainability and innovation.
Three cheers to Beaujolais – the region that defied expectations, the Gamay grape that stole the spotlight, and the future that holds promise and possibility. Beaujolais isn't just a wine; it’s a celebration, and a testament to how a region can reinvent itself when quality becomes their main focus.
So, whether you're a seasoned sipper or a wine novice, give Beaujolais a chance to be your companion on this adventure. It's time to discover the enchanting world of Beaujolais and the Gamay grape – where the rate of quality is improving at breakneck speed, but prices remain affordable. It’s a win for the wine-lover - cheers to the rebels of the vineyard!
Article written by Andrew Azzopardi
